Rear valance mod (2) 03/05/03

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Now with the hole cut I can fabricate the new port.

I just happened to have a spare bit or drainage pipe which was not only and very close diameter but also if I lined up the injection lines with the 'top' of the valance also gave the correct depth and degrees off level. This was fixed with masking tape so it would not later move. A 2 liter coke bottle was the other workable choice but wasnt quite wide enough.

To improve the forming and reduce file work later I also cut a couple of strips off some brick damp course and tapped it to the outside of the valance passing over the drain pipe. The surrounding inner valance was also scored with a knife to help keying.

A small amount a washing up liquid was rubbed on the 'damp course strips as this would help with its removal later. Fiberglass Bridgeing was then mixed and spread over the 'mould'. You would normally expect this to be hard in about 20 minutes, However I decided to use the last remaing amount from an old tin. Although I still dont know why this did not go off and was still rubbery after several hours. Because of this I mixed up a new batch a layed a skim over the top and filled in the edge holes I'd made from cutting around the bolts.

The second mix went off as expected so I removed the pipe. The area shown was still sticky but as it was getting late I decided to leave it for the day.

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	I just happened to have a spare bit or drainage pipe which was not only and very close diameter but also if I lined up the injection lines with the 'top' of the valance also gave the correct depth and degrees off level. This was fixed with masking tape so it would not later move. A 2 liter coke bottle was the other workable choice but wasnt quite wide enough.
	To improve the forming and reduce file work later I also cut a couple of strips off some brick damp course and tapped it to the outside of the valance passing over the drain pipe. The surrounding inner valance was also scored with a knife to help keying.
	A small amount a washing up liquid was rubbed on the 'damp course strips as this would help with its removal later. Fiberglass Bridgeing was then mixed and spread over the 'mould'. You would normally expect this to be hard in about 20 minutes, However I decided to use the last remaing amount from an old tin. Although I still dont know why this did not go off and was still rubbery after several hours. Because of this I mixed up a new batch a layed a skim over the top and filled in the edge holes I'd made from cutting around the bolts.
	The second mix went off as expected so I removed the pipe. The area shown was still sticky but as it was getting late I decided to leave it for the day.